For most of the day, especially in summer, the San Fernando Valley is baked in a stultifying, blinding, suffocating heat and intense sunlight. In those hours, peaking in the afternoon, it is an ugly place. Go to Sherman Way near the 170 at rush hour when its 105 degrees and see if you disagree.
But at dusk, near sundown, the Blue Hour appears.
And photographer Dima Otvertchenko, a New Jersey raised shooter living in North Hollywood, has a particular sensitivity and artistry in capturing our valley after the sun has gone below horizon.
Imagine how temperatures have cooled down after the heat of the day, how people have come home from work, eaten, and finally can go out for walk in a more temperate and gentle city.
His work is modern noir: graceful, atmospheric, cinematic, and magical. This is the San Fernando Valley at its most merciful hour, astutely photographed.
All photographs used with the permission of Dima Otvertchenko. Here is his Instagram.
For awhile now, residential modernism has been in charge in Los Angeles.
There was a period, roughly paralleling the 80s and 90s, when ersatz historical structures were the rage. Overdressed, highly embellished and gaudy.
But the stripped down box, the serious architect’s preferred style, is now the only way to build, especially on the west side of Los Angeles, where property is the most expensive, and every single ounce of concrete, glass and steel must pay homage to the gods of inconspicuous consumption.
The Box is King. Long live the Box!
On Memorial Day 2018, I walked from 5thand Pacific in Santa Monica down to Abbot Kinney, observing and photographing select buildings.
2120 4thSt. The West Winds (1959)
Whimsy from a cursive sign that provides a movie title sparkle to an otherwise dull structure.
2311 4thSt. Santa Monica (1967)
They charitably called it decorative modernism. It is a cheap way a developer dressed up his building with costume jewelry.
2316 3rdSt. Santa Monica (2017)
These are ultra-serious modernist condos designed by architect Robert Thibodeau. At least one unit sold for $2.6 million last year. They have all the emotionality and personality of a computer processor, but are of this moment in their sanitized, digital perfectionism, one that is scrupulously wired to accommodate residents who might command Alexa to send hot pizza and chilled Riesling by drone.
2404 2ndSt. Santa Monica (2006)
Already looking a bit dated with its ultra frozen metallic trim and smooth stucco, it compares awkwardly with its more relaxed and disheveled asphalt roofed neighbor next door.
2501 2ndSt. Santa Monica (circa 1902)
Fear not! This historic house has been under municipal evaluation/debate/conflict/litigation since at least 2010 and there are now plans to demolish only a back garage and guesthouse, and preserve the front structure. An official report by Santa Monica City said this property does not meet standards of preservation accorded to prominent architectural buildings. A casual observer might disagree.
2520 2ndSt. Santa Monica (1900)
Imagine if Santa Monica were like Martha’s Vineyard, and little beach cottages with front porches were the norm? 2520 sits in exquisite preservation, next to a parking lot, but it is landscaped with wildflowers and drought-savvy plants. In its modesty and kindness, its gentle openness, it serves as an exception, not as the norm.
2543 2ndAve. Santa Monica (1915?)
All over Southern California, the courtyard housing of the Early 20thCentury provided modest, enveloping, nurturing neighborhoods for new arrivals to the Golden State. These archetypes made maximum use of land, but did so with landscaping and interior gardens. Unlike today’s crime paranoid structures, this building has windows and doors around the entire perimeter, inviting and friendly. It is under renovation, no doubt destined to be something unaffordable.
260 2ndSt. Santa Monica, CA (1989)
Now almost 30 years old, this white, modernist, multi-family structure is best appreciated by observing it through steel security fencing and a parking lot. It has the mark of the late 1980s and early 90s in its square paned windows. Private, secretive, hidden, fortified, yet gleamingly bright and stripped down to essentials, this is what investment bankers, psychiatrists and plastic surgeons consider creative living.
320 Hampton Drive. Venice, CA (2015)
Google, Inc. is worth $600 billion and controls almost every aspect of every person’s life on the Planet Earth. It is more powerful than government, it is wealthier than 90% of all nations. Its infantile interface masks an incredibly complex and manipulative design meant to squeeze dollars out of any enterprise it wishes to.
It enslaves us by promising us ease. It erodes our individuality and uniqueness by herding us into categories assessed and rated by algorithms. It impregnates our dreams and deludes us into waking stupor.
Here is one of the buildings built by the pre-eminent monopoly of our time. It is a box: fortified, secured and undistinguished. Inside, no doubt, young employees bring dogs, tricycles, skateboards to work 18-hour-days, for 24 months, before they scooter over to another company in Silicon Beach.
In another moral riddle for our times, hundreds of homeless men and women sleep on the sidewalks just a few hundred feet away as if no money existed to rescue them from suffering.
“State of the art architectural, new residential compound, right in the heart of Venice. One block from Gold’s gym, Abbot Kinney Blvd and two blocks to the beach. This three story gem has everything, from the rooftop patio with a jacuzzi to huge walk in showers, built in speaker syste and much more. No expense was spared on the construction of this home, it truly is one of the finest homes that Venice has to offer. Perfect for a live work space. 2 car garage plus 2 uncovered parking spaces. Available fully furnished at $25,000.00 or unfurnished at $23,500.00 In addition to the space per public records, there is 500 sq/ft roof top patio that includes an outdoor kitchen and a hot-tub. On the second floor there is a 100 sq/ft balcony, on the main level there are also two decks/patios over 400 sq/ft that allow true indoor out door use total of over 1,000 sq/ft of outside use. LIVE WORK ZONED”
708 Hampton Dr. Venice, CA (2017)
“Perfect for a live work space. 2-car garage plus 2 uncovered parking spaces. Available fully furnished at $25,000.00 [a month] or unfurnished at $23,500.00”
Muscular guy on balcony extra.
The Bird Scooter
All over Venice, these motorized scooters, unlocked by app, rented by hour, provide another means of transportation which speeds one along without aerobic effort.
Motor Home Home
This RV is parked at Brooks and Electric. The California Flag flies behind it, fittingly, salutingly. No housing type has grown as fast as the parked recreational vehicle.
1201 Cabrillo Ave. Venice (2008)
This home sits partly on a street and partly in an alley, both of which help solidify its sculptural presence. Dark, with variegated steel panels, and zig-zag cut outs, it is somewhat softened by vines. Lest it forget its bohemian surroundings, a reminder of drug dealers and gangs is provided by shoes hung on electrical wires nearby; as well as a tagged refuse container in the back alley.
249 Rennie Ave. Venice, CA (2013)
This is just the back guesthouse, but sparkles with a Teutonic crispness, like 1920s Bauhaus. And if this were Japan, there would be many houses just like this one, built along fastidiously maintained alleys.
420 Marine St. Santa Monica (1969)
Only 50 years ago they were knocking down quaint neighborhoods in Santa Monica and erecting cheapo, stacked, shoe-boxed units like 420 Marine St. Almost mid-century modern, this late 60s dwelling shoves cars into the back alley, and squeezes one or two under the cantilevered second floor. An overgrown pepper tree grows like a beard to obscure a homely façade.
2709 4thSt. Santa Monica (1967)
Still a rental, a recent ad offered a two-bedroom for $3,100 a month. Well-maintained from the exterior, it looks to have been upgraded with steel security gate, garage doors and energy-efficient windows. Considering its date of construction, it’s surprisingly un-ugly.
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Given that the largest amount of new housing built in Van Nuys consists of tents on sidewalks, the idea of taking a portion of this district, say from Oxnard to VanOwen along Van Nuys Boulevard, and re-christening it as “The Van Nuys Experimental District” (VNED) is an idea whose time has come.
Along with light rail, bike roads and alternate modes of transport beyond private automobiles, the VNED would allow architects great freedom to build modern, inventive and attractive buildings providing apartments for a city starving for it.
If these buildings could be tax deferred for developers for 25 years, maybe the high costs of construction could be partially ameliorated.
Professional complainers, who begin and end every discussion with “where will they park?” should instead ask, “where will we live?” Amateur economists, who hate new housing because “it’s too expensive” should ask if limiting housing will reduce its price.
The photographs on this page are taken from a website called Architizer.
The photographs below were taken by me on Victory near Sepulveda on the south side of the “99 Ranch Market” shopping center.
Victory Bl. east of Sepulveda, Van Nuys, CA 5/10/18Victory Bl. east of Sepulveda, Van Nuys, CA 5/10/18
He is 21, dressed in a Hawaiian shirt with a cotton bomber jacket and button front denim jeans. She is 19, holds a Boxer pup and wears a leopard print coat and appears somewhat sad and disturbed.
They are Alvin and Beverly Turnmire, recently married.
Their address is a home in Studio City at 4232 Goodland Ave. near the golf course. They probably live with his parents, but they want to get out and get an apartment.
And Burbank police said they committed a string of burglaries in order to furnish their new place.
November 5, 1947 is the date of their arrest. They were caught 71 years ago, and are probably dead. But their reincarnated young beings still walk Ventura Boulevard.
Studio City people: in love with dogs and exotic clothes, chasing goods and desires beyond their reach, a place of happiness and meltdowns, a magnet for dreamers, a trap set in the San Fernando Valley for aspirational types who fled from somewhere else, a district where many survive by impersonation, wearing costumes and carrying animals and evading responsibilities.
1954: Cop with Five Truckloads of Stolen Building Material
And then Alvin Turnmire, 27, is arrested seven years later. For white people back then there were always second chances.
Photograph caption dated March 8, 1954 reads “Officer Thomas Quarles examines king-sized wire snips as he stands amid five truck loads of building material loot alleged stolen by Alvin R. Turnmire, 27, and found by officers at the suspect’s Sun Valley home. Goods was (sic) valued at $20,000.” The article partially reads: “A Sun Valley father, who seven years ago looted Burbank stores to set up housekeeping, is back in jail today for a fantastic nine-month series of burglaries.”
1957: Cops with stolen loot.
Alvin Turmire, now 31, is arrested again, ten years later, in 1957, now living in Pacoima. He is still committing burglaries. For white people back then there were always third chances. Maybe it helps that he was a Marine, fought in WWII, earned a Purple Heart, “got a Jap bullet in the leg at Iwo Jima, as his wife explains.”
Photograph caption dated August 1, 1957 reads, “T. E. Holt, left, checks stolen property at Valley station with Det. John Sublette after police picked up two truckloads of stolen goods at home of Alvin Turnmire, 31, 8969 Snowden Ave., Pacoima. More than $10,000 worth of various equipment was picked up. Turnmire was booked on suspicion of burglary and is scheduled to be arraigned today.”
Photograph caption dated November 12, 1948 reads, “Exterior view of the new $125,000 gymnasium, given McKinley Home for Boys by the Kiwanis Clubs of Greater Los Angeles, as youngsters pour out after practice. Some of them go to study, others to definite work chores and some to the football field. Jake Kehrer, one of the playground supervisors, is their friend and counsellor [sic] and also a firm coach in the sporting events. If two boys get into an argument that needs settling, they put on gloves and work it out under Marquis of Queensberry rules.”
The Reverend and Mrs. Uriah Gregory established the Industrial Home Society in 1900. Their mission: to look after orphaned, abused and homeless children at their 33-acre estate in Artesia, CA.
Later renamed The McKinley Home For Boys (after President William McKinley who was assassinated in 1901), the institution acquired, around 1920, some 200 acres of land in “Van Nuys” which is now covered by the expanse of the Fashion Square Mall in Sherman Oaks. (see photos above/below credit: LAPL)
From 1920 to 1960, the home operated out of its eclectic architectural barracks and main building, a mixture of Mission and Spanish architecture which housed 150-250 boys at any one time.
Vintage photographs show that the home was a focus point of many well-meaning, civic-minded men and women who funded athletic, work, and farming activities, as well as other character building exercises for children who were given a lousy start in life.
Photograph caption dated July 18, 1960 reads, “Approving transaction from precarious perch on monkey bar, Terry Fox, 13, resident of McKinley Home for Boys, watches as Encino Jaycee, Robert L. Levey, left, presents check to George T. Swartzott, McKinley superintendent. Jaycees raised funds through Concours D’ Elegance benefit. Donation will purchase play equipment for McKinley boys.”Photograph caption dated October 27, 1955 reads, “McKinley boys draw steady bead during intramural marbles playoff. Intramurals are part of outdoor program which includes summer mountain camping in Wrightwood area of Big Pines. Boys spend three weeks each at camp. Los Angeles Kiwanis Club, which contributes 10 percent of McKinley’s total annual budget, pays full costs of camp. In addition to sports boys receive training in religion of their choice.”Photograph caption dated October 27, 1955 reads, “James Ryan, left, and Bob Bickel tend poultry they are raising to earn spending money. As part of small animal project, McKinley boys are raising rabbits guinea pigs, calves for marketing. Boys acquire money to purchase animals by performing chores for homeowners and Valley businessmen. Another pocket money source is working at building and grounds maintenance at McKinley. Home officials feel boys learn to value money by running own enterprises.”
Mr. M.H. Whittier, the Kiwanis, and other bankers, oilmen, developers and anyone who wanted public do-gooding on their resume, heartily pitched in labor and dollars to keep the boys happy playing football, raising chickens, instructing swimming, boxing, gymnastics, football; all the activities that might steer them clear of trouble. And into a productive life of work, family, marriage, proper procreation and moral behavior.
Photograph caption dated May 30, 1961 reads, “McKinley Home for Boys honored community leaders and outstanding students at its Awards Banquet, presenting certificates for achievement. Among recipients were Harold McKee, front left, 6903 Rubio Ave., Van Nuys; Mrs. Ben F. Leach, 12156 Blix St., North Hollywood; Mrs. Gerald Hewitt, 13602 Valley Vista Blvd., Sherman Oaks; Nate Miller, 4817 Woodman Ave., Sherman Oaks, and Mrs. Robert Sweeney, 13015 Dickens St., North Hollywood. At rear are George T. Swartzott, superintendent of McKinley Home, 13840 Riverside Dr., Sherman Oaks, with some award-winning boys.”Photograph caption dated September 10, 1959 reads, “Wedding Party At McKinley — Mr. and Mrs. Roy Widener, married last weekend at McKinley Home for Boys in Sherman Oaks, cut wedding cake with their sons. Boys are, from left, Roy Jr., 11, and Ralph Widener, 13, and Bob Corey, 12. Couple met at McKinley where boys have lived for three years.Photograph caption dated April 29, 1957 reads “In shade of deodars and oaks at McKinley Home for Boys in Sherman Oaks families meet to discuss fall-out, roentgens, deterioration and other topics familiar to their calling as radiological monitors for civil defense. Meeting was attended mainly by squads from the Valley.”
Alas, the boys and their home were no match for the powerful Ventura Freeway which sliced through their grounds in 1958 and forced the home and its crew-cut youngsters to flee to San Dimas.
Photograph caption dated October 27, 1960 reads, “A scoopful of sidewalk superintendents watch as ground is broken at McKinley Home for Boys in Sherman Oaks to pave way for new 29-are shopping center at the site bounded by Woodman, Hazeltine and Riverside drive. The McKinley home moves to new quarters, now under construction in San Dimas. Digging the first hole for Bullock’s department store are Marty Becker, 8, and Tim Mitchell, 9, who are looking up to Mathew Frost, 10.”Photograph caption dated June 21, 1961 reads, “There were more important things to do Tuesday than play ball at McKinley Home for Boys in Sherman Oaks. It was moving day. After 40 years, the Valley landmark moved from 13840 Riverside Dr. to the new, sprawling McKinley Home in San Dimas in San Gabriel Valley. But Tom Pearce, 12, and Melvin Conklin, 12, had to give the ball just one more pitch before they packed up and moved on. It’s easy to pack, center photo. You have boxes and things go in boxes. Orderly, of course. But it’s hard to leave the building, last photo, and climb onto the bus. A new home may be fun, but the old home has memories.”Photograph caption dated August 8, 1960 reads, “Clay Johnson, 26, 16048 Celtic Ave., Granada Hills, alumnus of McKinley Home for Boys, 13840 Riverside Dr., Sherman Oaks, peers through chain-link fence with student Mike Chacon, 9, at Ventura Freeway, a major cause forcing move of home out of Valley early next year. Freeway rolls to within three feet of home. More than 200 alumni paid final respects to 40-year-old home Saturday.”
The Bullocks Company soon came in with its plan for a 29-acre mall and the last photos of the McKinley Home in Van Nuys (Sherman Oaks) show it next to the concrete structure that would soon house a shopping center.
The twin monsters of modern vapidity, the freeway and the shopping mall, would triumph here as they would everywhere else.
Lost in the destruction was a unique community artfully housed in exotic and historic buildings, a verdant expanse of a place where those without loving parents or family might come together under the careful, strict, instructive guidance of teachers, coaches, and philanthropists who were determined to set the boys straight.
60 years later, 100,000 men and women sleep on the sidewalks and live next to the garbage, and defecate in public, in “prosperous” Los Angeles, but once upon a time this city and its elite had a tough-hearted way of taking care of people who nobody else would.
Photograph caption dated July 4, 1961 reads, “The McKinley Home for Boys disappears from its site of 40 years, along Ventura Freeway in Sherman Oaks. More than 80 boys from the home are now in new quarters in San Dimas, paid for by sale of the valuable Valley property to Bullock’s for the newest Valley department store.”
Here in Van Nuys 
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